Here is a tech tip that I recently wrote for our club newsletter (when
you're the editor, you tend to write a lot of articles) on this exact
subject:
Anyone who has disassembled their dash gauges can appreciate the frustration
of first trying to remove the chrome ring that holds the glass secure to the
gauge and then finding the dried up remains of the rubber gasket (if that is
what this material ever was). Well, certainly one of the parts distributors
must have these, but when you look in their catalog or check the parts
manual, low and behold they are not listed. The reason for this is that the
gaskets came as part of the gauge, which was produced by Smiths/Jaeger. So
what do you do?
I have tried various materials and have talked to others that have used
everything from windshield glazing to using the gaskets that are available
to seal the gauge to the dash, none of which provide the proper seal for the
chrome rings. The solution I have devised is to make my own gaskets. To do
this, you will need the following materials:
1. Permatex "The Right Stuff" gasket maker (part #29208)
2. Universal Pump Dispenser (this is a plastic syringe found in the glue
section of your local hardware store)
3. An Exacto knife or any arts and crafts sharp cutting blade
4. Q-Tips
5. Pam cooking spray
6. Small screwdriver or dental pick
The Permatex gasket maker is a silicon-based material that cures to a
flexible rubbery composition that is easy to work with and makes a great
gasket. Here is what you do to make your gasket:
1. Clean out the inside of the gauge cover ring of any of the remains of
the
old gasket.
2. Cut off the tip of the syringe to the size opening that allows enough
material to by pushed out to the thickness of the gasket you need to make.
3. Depending on the number of gasket you will be making, fill the syringe
with the Permatex.
4. Spray the tip of the Q-tip with the Pam and wipe this on the inside of
the ring, but do not saturate the surface.
5. Take the syringe and evenly apply the Permatex in the grove for the
gasket to the height just below the inner lip of the ring. You will get
some "waves" in the material and uneven application, but this is okay. Just
be sure that it is a continuous bead of material that fills in the grove.
6. Let the Permatex cure for 24 hours.
7. Using the small screwdriver or the dental pick, work this under the
gasket and pry up the gasket until it is released from the ring. There will
be some spots that the Permatex will remain stuck in small bits and these
can be removed by just scraping them off to clean up the surface.
8. Using the exacto blade, trim the gasket of any uneven areas or bulges.
Don't be shy since the material is very pliable and cuts easily.
You will not have a perfect looking gasket, but this will absolutely provide
you with a good seal and one that will remain flexible for the next time you
need to disassemble the gauge.
Hope this helps. BTW, for those who are aware of my extended restoration of
the '59 TR3, I am proud to announce that I fired up the engine today for the
first time since I rebuild the head and had the lower end done. Had a real
tough time adjusting the timing, but once we got that figured out (don't
forget the notion of being "off a tooth"), it fired up and ran great. Some
minor adjustment with the carbs and all was fine. One problem was the fuel
shut off tap leaked, so I just bypassed this and will deal with it later.
Anyway, I'm certainly excited!
Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Mickylong@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 9:57 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Gauge repair
OK. Following the advice of those who have been there and done it, I
managed
to pry and twist the front bezels off two of my gauges. And now I know why
it was so tough -- it looks like the material behind the bezel that fits to
the glass face (was this rubber at some point?) after 31+ years in the sun
has either crumbled to dust or has become rock hard and stuck. Either way,
it's toast.
What's my best bet for replacing this -- I assume the bezel won't fit tight
against the glass unless some type of material is added. I was thinking
about gasket material or maybe fashioning a seal out of clear silicone
caulk.
Any other thoughts?
Micky Long, Atlanta
72 TR 6
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