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Re: #%$^@#!@# diff pinion seal!

To: darrellw@inetarena.com, triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: #%$^@#!@# diff pinion seal!
From: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 10:41:55 -0700
Thread-index: AcLph/LQ/sao+0qjEde/7ACw0Nor8A==
Thread-topic: Re: #%$^@#!@# diff pinion seal!
Darrell, I have had better luck with the rubber seal, but before you put
any seal in make sure you check the pinion flange for seal wear.  You
may want to use some crocus cloth to clean up any wear. If its bad,
Speedi-sleeves are available from NAPA or Moss.  Also, double check to
make sure the pinion shaft doesnt have excessive side-to-side play.

The rubber seal I bought came from Napa but essentially it was the CR
(Chicago Rawhide, go figure) type.  If you have this seal, you may find
that the OD of the seal housing is slightly larger than the OEM seal.
When I put mine in, the leading edge went in fine, but whilst I got
closer to whacking it home, it warped inward.  I think this is becuase
the leading edges will give a little, but the flat surface of the seal
housing wont give as you get it closer to the ID of the housing.  I went
with the slightly warped seal anyway and is working fine after about 5K
miles.  BTW I didnt test completely nose down, but perhaps 45 deg.

Since I cleaned up the pinion flange and replaced the new but leaking
leather seal with the rubber one, I wasnt able to definitively point the
finger at the leather seal but I want to believe that if the leather
seal was ok when new, a new one should be ok again assuming a smooth
flange seal.

I have heard that oil can leak through the splines and around the
washer, and a little Hylomar was used to seal it up.  Also, if you have
the newer diff with the nyloc nut, a crush washer was used to set the
pinion preload.  If so, others on the list may be able to share their
experiences.

John - 1976 (diff with castellated nut, presumably the older diff but
one of these days I will get the number off the case and see if someone
can confirm)

Darrell wrote:>
OK, first a quick recap on my diff pinion seal adventure:

Pull the diff last week to replace leaking front pinion seal.  After
installing new seal from Moss, refilled the diff and set on bench,
still leaked.  Leak appeared to be from between the outside metal case
of the seal and the diff housing.

Pulled the flange back off, and tried to seat/expand the metal seal
housing.  Almost completely stopped the leak, but it was still weeping
a bit.

Ordered two new seals, on from BPWN (close enough that UPS ground is
next-day delivery) and one from Moss (needed other stuff anyway).  The
BPNW seal came first, and was a little different than the Moss seal.
The Moss seal was rubber, the BPNW seal looked like some kind of
synthetic leather.  Decided to try the BPNW seal.  Coated the outside
of the seal with Hylomar and installed.  Sat for a day in the normal
position with no sign of leakage, so I decided to set it nose-down
overnight.  This made it leak around the seal/flange!  The previous
rubber seal was able to hold oil in this test.

So, is the nose-down test too severe?  Or should I install the rubber
seal?  I want to put the diff back in tomorrow!

Thanks,
Darrell

- --
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

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