Hugh,
Congrats on solving your turn signal problem!
If you have a TRF Parts Catalogue check plates AR/AS, & BG/BH in volume
1 as a guide to determine if your emission breathing and evaporative
loss systems are connected properly and are not leaking. 1972 was a
change-over year in emission controls and you'll have to determine
what's correct for your car.
This may or may not be the cause of your idle problem, but at least you
will be able to eliminate these areas as a probable cause.
Jim Davis
Fortson, GA
CF38690UO
CF37325U
Well, I finally got my turn signals working consistently. They have been
intermittent since I got the car. After monkeying around with the
lights,
sockets, wiring, and flasher, I finally, finally decided to take a look
at
the switch. Guess what? It was the switch. A very poor soldering job to
repair the switch had been done. I'm not sure how it's supposed to look,
but
small sheet metal screws were turned into the through holes for the
wires
coming off of the switch. Wires were then soldered to the screws! I had
to
drill out a rivet to dismantle the switch, clean it up the contacts,
remove
the blobs of solder, and solder new wires in. I replaced the rivet with
a #6
screw. Now it works like a charm.
Now a question. I still have an inconsistent idle speed. Runs great
otherwise. I rebuilt the Stromberg carbs a couple of months ago. No
vacuum
leaks anywhere I can find (with carb cleaner or propane). I have the
carbon
canister disconnected. The breather tube from the valve cover goes to a
tee
and then to both carbs. Now, I discovered when I pinch the tube from the
valve cover, the idle goes up a bit and becomes more consistent. Could
this
modification to the plumbing be causing my problem? Do I need a real PCV
valve?
Thanks,
Hugh Fader
72 TR6
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|