Message text written by Scott Tilton
>I decided to put a dial indicator on the fan extension and pull it back
and
>forth. I measured .016 of free play.
>How bad is this?
Bad enough to warrant fixing, especially since the engine is out and it is
relatively easy.
>How much of a job is it to fix it?
With it out, it is much easier. I did this in situ (ie: on my back) and it
still wasn't too bad. Borrow an engine stand and you can roll the thing
over (drain the oil first). You will need a lower gasket set, some thrust
washers, and since you are in there consider replacing the bearing shells
and the oil pump (shipwright's disease, don't you know). Replacing the rod
bearings is easy. Replacing the mains is just a little more tricky -
getting the lower one out. Loosen the caps and lift the crank slightly and
you can usually slip the new one in there dislodging the old one.
You will bugger up the gasket between the block and the front plate and you
may be tempted to remove it (shipwright's disease) and reinstall. I didn't
have that option so I cut out a piece of the gasket in the kit and smeared
it up with gasket sealant and reinstalled it and it doesn't leak too bad
(if at all - it may be the front seal).
You can pull the pan off and pull a few bearing shells and determine if you
need standard or oversized. I recommend getting a set of stock thrust
washers and a set of +.005. You can mix-and-match to find the optimum
combination for you.
>Any been there done that experiences appreciated.
Yup. The #1 main cap is bolted to the front adapter plate and it takes a
right angle screwdriver to get some of the screws unless you pull the front
pulley. If you do that you may want to pull the timing chain cover to
replace the seal. Then you'll want to pull the front adapter plate which
means pulling the timing chain. Then you'll want to replace the camshaft.
And turn the crank, and boil out the block. And... and...and...
Beware!
Good luck
Dave
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