Jim, David :
I've had a fair amount of trouble with TR3 head gaskets over the years,
but I've never been able to tell that which way it was installed, or
what goop I put on it, made any difference.
IMO the important part is to be sure that your liners stand out of the
block by the specified amount ON BOTH SIDES, preferably near the .0055"
maximum (or maybe even a little more). I discovered that for some
reason, possibly the block not being machined square, the liners on my
current engine measure .004" on one side, but only .002" on the other.
The correct solution would be to have the block machined ("decked"), but
since I didn't want to pull the front apron, I soldered copper wire to
the head gasket instead. Seems to've worked <knock, knock>
On my previous engine, the liners stuck out by about .005" on both
sides, and the gasket would seal even if reused once or twice.
I do note that Mordy Dunst (Gasket Works USA LLC) has a specific sealer
that he recommends (and sells) for use with his solid copper head
gaskets (which are apparently somewhat difficult to keep sealed on
racing motors). That was going to be my next step, if the wire didn't
work. Mordy's website is
http://www.headgasket.com/
BTW, my head gasket leaks always showed up as cooling problems. The
combustion gases would leak past the gasket into the water jacket,
forcing water out the overflow and leading to overheating.
Randall
a Wallace wrote:
>
> I see in Bentley that they call for this stuff, or equivalent, on both
> sides of the head gasket. I guess if using it Permatex 2 would do the job
> as it retains its plasticity.
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