Hi Rob :
>
> The day finally arrived that my TR2 (TR3) engine /
> transmission rebuild was complete.
Well, I'm glad to hear you've stuck with it this long, somehow I had the
impression you'd already given up.
> It appears to be
> a slight leak with no noticeable drop in coolant level
It's tough to check coolant level accurately under those conditions, because
the water expands and the level rises as it gets hot (and vice versa). The
oil level also rises slowly as the car sets, and drops somewhat the first
time it's started, as there is a modest amount trapped in the lifters and
whatnot.
> I will change the oil immediately and I thought I might
> try some type of sealer in the coolant. What type of product
> would you recommend?
My favorite is a product called 'Aluma-Seal', about $2 at most auto supply
stores (including K-mart). It's best to be a bit low on water when adding
the Aluma-Seal, so that when you refill, it helps disperse the powder.
> I don't like doing that, but neither do I
> like the thought of pulling the engine and doing all the rebuild again.
Note that you don't have to pull the engine to change the head gasket and
'fig 8' seals. With only a modicum of care, it can be done with the engine
in the car. Be sure you drain the water jacket first, via the tap on the
side of the block. I find that if I remove the air cleaners (mine are not
stock, and come close to the inner fender), I also don't have to remove the
carbs and linkage. I just let the manifolds and carbs hang on the exhaust
pipe, and pry them away from the head long enough to clear the studs.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
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