Message text written by INTERNET:ArthurK101@aol.com
>> I'm a member of the VTR and am the proud owner of a 1964 TR4. I've had
the
> tranny rebuilt and just replaced the clutch as well, so I figured why not
> do the U-joints as well! So the yoke end nearest the tranny, I followed
> the shop book by removing the circlips and then banging a hammer on the
> yoke until the bearings and caps slid out by themselves... No problem.
> The problem has arisen with the yoke end for the diff. I've tried
soaking
> WD-40 and Liquid Wrench in both ends of the bearing and near the actual
> joint. I've tried banging around the sides and have tried to squeeze a
> chisel into the sides to bang in, but all to no avail. That joint is NOT
> coming out... I was hoping you might have some ideas or some experience
> similar to mine.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!
> Thanks,
> Andy
<
Bang them out with a hammer. Ha ha ah. Bang ten out with a hammer! WA HA
HA HA!!!!
Excuse Me.
We, ... Ha ha ah. sorry Can't help myself.
Um, on any car over 7 years old banging them out is extremely optomistic.
I use the two sockets and a bench vise technique. Find a socket wrench
sized to just barely fit through the boor and find another big enough to
allow the bearing cap to pass into and position the lot in a vice where the
smaller socket can press the U-joint bearing cap into the larger socket.
Repeat for the other side.
Please not that the U-joint spider will bind up in the yoke before the cap
is completely out but it will be far enough that you can grasp it with a
pair of locking pliers and waggle it out the rest of the way. Unless they
are really tight. I have had to go so far as to grind a couple of flats
into the cap si I could rotate it and work it out that way.
Bottom line: if these U-joints have been in place for 20+ years
extraordinary measures may be required.
Good luck
Dave
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