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Re: Door catches - Herald

To: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>, "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Door catches - Herald
From: "Scott A. Roberts" <herald1200@home.com>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 00:52:56 -0400
References: <9937A7D9A93AD31180AC0090277DE5C28837F0@FUEL> <006501c0e496$b748c200$6487403e@zebu>
. I would suggest a thorough
> service of the latching mechanism and to make sure you have a small (ish)
> even gap at the back of the door, is the door to bonnet gap smaller than
the
> bulkhead (scuttle) to bonnet gap, they should be fairly equal, if not move
> the door back until it is equal then move the bonnet back if necessary,
this
> should ensure that the two parts of the catch overlap as much as possible,
> meaning that there is less chance of the body flex causing the two bits to
> come apart.


I have to comment- the "correct" way to adjust the rear of door gap,
according to the factory manual is to basically shift the rear tub forwards!
I quote form the "Big Book of Herald(i.e.: the factory manual...) page
5.227:

"Remove the sill panel from the side of the car requiring adjustment, and
slacken the body mounting bolts D,E,F,H and K.(page 5.201)

Insert two hardwood wedges between the frame and rear floor about 2" (5.1mm)
inward of the body mounting point F. Gently hammer the wedges in, as shown,
until satisfactory clearance is achieved.

Retighten body mounting bolts. Remove the wedges, check the clearance, and
refit the sill"

The procedure is pretty straightforward, and simple. The photo mentioned
above shows two wedges in place between the rear outrigger member, and the
drop forward of the rear seat. That is the area to spread. The wedges
themselves are simple wooden ones, approximately 1"square by 6" long. The
body mounting bolts mentioned are D (the ones at the overlap), E forward
outrigger, rear section, F rear outrigger, rear section, H the ones above
the differential, and K the rearmost ones in the back of the trunk(they
forgot J which is there as well)

I think this, while a slightly more time consuming method, is the better of
the two, as you don't have to worry about upsetting the other alignments-
door tilt or drop, hood, etc. Actually, other than having to loosen a bunch
of bolts, it is fairly simple.

Factory gap between the door and bonnet, and door and rear section should be
a uniform 5/16" (5 mm) according to the book.

Good luck!

Scott

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