triumphs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Solder (was TR3 Wiring Harness Prep)

Subject: Re: Solder (was TR3 Wiring Harness Prep)
From: Randall Young <randallyoung@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 10:23:26 -0800
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3AAAEB05.784CE50D@theriver.com> <3AAB83BD.57F4DCA2@borg.com> <3AABB883.3E2C661E@earthlink.net> <000c01c0aa53$212bcce0$504a4ccf@fbdsforz>
There are several things that can help alleviate this problem.  One is
to tin only as much of the wire end as necessary, another is to add a
length of heat shrink tubing over the tinned/untinned transition.  For
connections like the dizzy-coil wire that use a connector, I like to use
an uninsulated 'solderless' connector, crimp it in place, then solder
the end of the wire where it protrudes from the crimp, and
insulate/reinforce/protect with heat shrink.

I used to work for a company that placed mini-computer systems onboard
seismic survey ships.  The seismic surveys they do involve essentially
setting off an explosion under the stern of the ship every 10 seconds or
so, for days on end.  The explosions used to actually be dynamite
charges, but when I worked them, they used 3000 psi compressed air and
special 'guns' that would release several cubic feet in an instant. 
(ISTR the Shell America had a 750hp compressor !)  The stern of the ship
would visibly jump, and the water turn white in a big circle. 
Definitely a high vibration, high corrosion environment !

Anyway, we (and all the other on-board vendors) used both crimped and
soldered connections, all professionally done.  Failed connections were
a common (and very expensive !) occurence.  My personal observation was
that crimped connections failed more often than soldered (although both
failed).  

I don't remember ever having a soldered joint fail on my TR3 daily
driver, but I chased down a bad crimp connection (done in a hurry to
leave for VTR last year) just the other day.

Randall

Don Sforza wrote:
> 
> I always thought that "soldered" was better than "clamped" and I tinned and
> soldered all of the connections that I needed to on my '63 TR4 resto.
> Unfortunately, what works for the electronics industry, where there is little,
> if any, vibration, does NOT work in the automotive field.
> 
> The soldering (or just tinning the ends of the wires) creates a brittle
> situation. Over time, the lack of flexibility in the wire (you may not even 
>see
> where the  break will come... even UNDER the insulation where the solder has
> migrated), will eventually lead to failure.

///
///  triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
///


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>