Harbor Freight sometimes has the MityVac (brand) automotive 'kit' on sale for
$40. This is the metal bodied one, which IMO is better than the plastic bodied
one that Pep Boys sells. (I have the plastic one, held together with baling
wire and JB weld.) The kit includes the brake bleeder attachment, which IMO is
worthless for bleeding brakes, but works well for things like changing the fluif
in dashpots.
The advance plate on a TR3 can be removed from the base plate. IMO it's
worthwhile to occasionally do so, in order to smear a little high-quality grease
on all the contact spots. As long as you've got the plates out, also remove the
advance weights to be cleaned, inspected and lubed. Whole job takes maybe 20
minutes, and won't alter the timing (unless something was stuck to begin with).
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
Scott A. Roberts wrote :
>
> Actually, an inexpensive vacuum tester from Pep-Boys works great, and, you
> can leave the vacuum charged to test for leakdown in the diaphragm in case
> it is not ruptured or ripped, but only punctured and intermittent.
"Joe Curry" <spitlist@gte.net> wrote :
>
> > Remove the dizzy cap and the hose from the vacuum pot. Suck on the end of
> the hose to induce a vacuum into the unit. If you can't
> > create a vacuum, the diaphragm is broken. If you can create a vacuum,
> watch the distributor plate to see if it moves. If it does then
> > the unit is working. If it does not, disconnect the vacuum unit and see
> if the plate is free to move. If not it probably can be freed
> > up using penetrating oil.
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