One thing as an alternative. I used the NOVUS plastic 3-step process to
get the years of crud off instead of the buffing wheel. Worked great.
Joe Burlein
72 TR-6
PS: I also used the Eastwood reflective aluminum paint. It also did a
great job.
On Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:54:58 -0400 bob <rmf3860@erols.com> writes:
>
> Patrick:
>
> I just happen to have completed the same project on my 75 TR6. I
> purchased new lens to lens frame gaskets as well as body to lens
> frame
> gaskets. I assume you did the same.
>
> I did not use any RTV/silicone/sealer. As long as the mating
> surfaces
> are smooth and clean, there is no need for any goop. When you screw
> the
> frames back in place from inside the trunk, tighten each screw down
> so
> that about one quarter of the gasket is compressed. This also keeps
> the
> gap uniform and factory new in appearance.
>
> I'd like to pass on some additional things I did during this project
> which you may wish to consider, since everything is already apart.
> Wash
> your lenses in detergent and then buff them using a buffing wheel
> and
> the appropriate color rouge. Use a loose string buffing wheel. If
> you
> don't have access to a buffer, polish the lenses with a mild
> polishing
> compound by hand. You won't believe what a difference it makes.
> While
> the assemblies are off, repaint the light reflectors using silver or
> chrome paint. Eastwood sells a specific color for this task, but I
> bought a can of chrome spray paint at Home Depot and got excellent
> results. The last thing I did, as a preventative measure, was (with
> the
> battery disconnected) used emery cloth and an emery board nail file
> to
> clean all the electrical connections, including the ground in the
> trunk.
>
> Sorry I answered more than your question, but I like to pass on
> things
> when they work well for me.
>
> Bob Fabie
> Fredericksburg, Va
Joe Burlein
72 TR-6
Melbourne, FL
Real cars are designed to carry only two people, anything else is just a
bus.
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