Been there, done that!
My method was to use a heat gun with two settings, hot and damn hot. I
softened the undercoating, then scraped it off with a flexible, metal bladed
putty knife - I also rounded the corners of the knife to lower the
likelihood of damaging the metal underneath. The wheel wells were time
consuming, but you cannot remove the undercoating by sand blasting.
Since I finished the job, I have heard that Eastwood has an aerosol product
that softens the stuff enough to get off with a putty knife. I'm not sure
if it works, but it sounded neat.
Judging by where you are located, the heat gun might be a wonderful option,
as you can heat the coating and your fingers in the dead of winter.
Good luck.
Eric Conrad
'76 TR6 - body back on chassis, final sanding and painting the outside of
the car is next. (The underside and engine bay are now painted.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Rob Christopher
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2000 3:02 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Black goop in wheel wells
Hi all,
I'd like to hear suggestions on how those who have BTDT have removed the
undercoating from the various metal surfaces on a TR6. I only have the
gas tank and dash to remove on CF28217UO before pulling the body and
getting it dipped/blasted. The local bodywork guru dropped by my house
last night to check out the job, and he says he'd like to see the
undercoat removed and as much paint as possible before he takes
delivery.
It's around freezing here in Ottawa right now, so the stuff is really
brittle, but it's also really cold on the fingers to be working in the
garage.
So is the best method a stout putty knife/cold chisel and a hammer?
Will chemically stripping the paint also take care of the undercoating?
Is sand blasting aggresive enough to remove this gunk?
Rob Christopher
74.5 TR6 CF28217UO (taking the plunge into frame off resto land......)
Ottawa, ON
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