Frank :
Reminds me of my first TR3 "rebuild", which was done lying on my back in
4" of snow. However, I was fortunate enough to have electric power, so
was able to throw a tarp over the car and run an electric heater
underneath, to get the metal above freezing.
Try getting the type of flexible narrow blade putty knife that has metal
through the handle, and using a hammer to drive it through the pan
gasket. Work your way along one long side of the pan until you can pull
that side loose, then the leverage should pull the other side loose.
It's best not to have your face under the pan while doing this,
otherwise you may get hit in the nose <g>
BTW, I later used a 'salamander' aka 'smudge pot' for several years to
heat a shed while working on cars in the winter. Farmers sometimes use
them to heat open fields, I got mine at a farm supply place for around
$15 (in 1973). They are dirty, and dangerous, but are cheap and produce
huge amounts of heat. It's basically a covered round pot, 2-3 ft in
diameter, 1ft deep, that serves as both burner and fuel tank, with a 4-5
ft 'stack' of ventilated stove pipe and a flame deflector at the top.
They'll burn home heating oil, or diesel fuel, probably even with used
crankcase oil mixed with it.
Randall
"Boothroyd, Frank" wrote:
>
> And now my oil pan is stuck. And I mean STUCK.
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