James,
Check the ammeter itself also. If there is a open in the gauge somewhere,
you will not get power to anything else. Easy enough to do, disconnect one
wire and connect it the same lug as the other wire, or disconnect both and
tie thenm together with a wire nut, and see if you get anything to work.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Young" <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 9:48 AM
Subject: RE: Wiring TR3
>
> James :
>
> Yes, the regulator's A and A1 terminals (I forget which is which) are in
series
> with the rest of the electrical system, except for the starter and horns.
>
> On a pre-60K car, ISTR the circuit runs from the starter solenoid to the
horn
> side of the fuse block, then to the ammeter, then to either A or A1 on the
> regulator, then from the other A terminal to the headlight switch and to
the
> ignition switch. Post-60K should be similar.
>
> Randall
>
>
> On Thursday, August 24, 2000 5:12 AM, James Fowler
> [SMTP:jFowler@mail.southeast.cc.nc.us] wrote:
> >
> > I have almost completed a frame-off restoration of a 1960 TR3A.
> > That included a new wiring harness (TRF), coil, fuse box, and starter
> > solenoid. I change the positive ground to negative, as described in a
VTR
> > section. I have wired all parts of the center dash panel using a wiring
> > diagram as a guide. I have not completed wiring the lights or horns.
Using
> > an ohm meter, all of the grounds check out. Once the battery is
connected ,
> > I can use the solenoid button to turn over the motor. My problem is
that I
> > am not getting any current to the panel, the keyed ignition switch, the
coil,
> > or the push starter. Could the regulator break that circuit? Any
hints?
> >
> > 60 TR3A 70K series
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