My father , Ken von Kluck, posted earlier in the day about this, but I
have a lot of questions beyond what he asked. As he said, I noticed the
car was smoking from the transmission tunnel cover and from underneath the
hood on the way to and from work (only 6 blocks from our house). So after
pulling the plugs and noticing that 1 was cracked and all of 1, 2, and 3
were covered with carbon while 4 is fine, the head is almost off. Which
leads me to my first question : The nut on the rearmost stud holding the
head to the block seems to have stripped its threads off and will turn on
the stud but not come off. And suggestions ? My instinct is to first try
putting a second nut on and simply trying to unscrew the whole stud, and
then to try progessively nastier methods if that proves useless.
Once I do get the head off, I'm very tempted to do some of the
Kastner modifications. So a couple of questions about that naturally come
up - If I do take the head to a machine shop to get it milled (.090") and
then fit the thinner head gasket that moss sells, is it possible to have
the pushrods shortened accordingly without taking the whole engine to the
machine shop? (Or has anyone done this but not shortened the pushrods?)
Beyond that, if any of you have carried out the modifications that Kastner
talks about for a "streetable" car, I'd be interested to hear about
performance gains, prices, whatever. (Off list preferably, since I know
that this thread has come up from time to time)
One last thing - has anyone fit the 3.5" tall K&N filters to a
TR-4 with the stock SU setup and a long bulge hood? I wondered if they
would fit and or whether I would have to get the carbs retuned to deal
with increased air flow - the car still has the original wire mesh filters
on it.
Sorry that was so long winded.
Any input would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Jordan von Kluck
|