Dennis Lambert wrote:
>
> 1) When I engage the clutch and try to shift, I get lots of grinding from
> the tranny and resistance at the shift lever. It feels as if the clutch is
> not disengaging fully. If I pump the clutch a couple of times, I get smooth
> shifts, but I have to pump about two of three times per shift. Do I just
> need to bleed the clutch system again? I,m using DOT5 fluid. I have the
> slave cylinder push rod adjusted almost all the way out. Is there a spec on
> the actual travel distance of the clutch lever?
Don't know the travel spec, but it sounds like you may be suffering the
dread "broken taper pin" syndrome. After releasing the clutch, push the
slave piston back into the slave as far as it will go (the adjustable
setup has a spring to do this), then check how much free travel there is
in the pushrod. If you can't adjust it below 1/32", then the taper pin
is a likely suspect. I actually ran for several years with a broken
taper pin by making up a longer pushrod <g>
Another possible problem is a broken spring inside the MC. Typical
symptom is that the pedal seems to have a lot of free play, caused by
the MC piston not coming out all the way.
> 2) The red dash light won't go out. I checked voltage at the control box
> 'D' terminal, and got about 2.3 to 2.6 volts, regardless of RPM. I then
> disconnected the 'D' lead at the generator and measured voltage there. I
> got 4.1 to 5.8 volts, regardless of RPM. I suspect a bad generator. The
> generator is a freshly rebuilt unit (two years ago, but I'm just now
> beginning to run the engine) from one of the big three, but I guess it will
> have to go back; just one more small bump in the road (sigh).
Try disconnecting the wires from the generator, then connect the two
terminals together with a voltmeter to ground. Start the engine, but
don't rev past 1500 or so. If you don't get at least 12v, then the
generator is bad. If you do, the problem lies elsewhere.
Randall
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