Fred,
I think Dave is talking about the Gunson "EeziBleed", it's about $40. I
tried it on the '3 but couldn't get a good seal on the lid at the MC - Knew
that would lead to brake fluif everywhere so I didn't go any further. You
can make your own '6 lid by drilling a hole in an old lid (Yeah, right) and
attaching the hose to it. Also, you have to drop the pressure in the tire
you use to 12 psi so use the spare and air it up afterwards - I know you
don't want to be driving around looking for air with about 10 psi in one of
your tires.
I think it will work; I have a spare lid for the '6 when I get there; I need
a new reservoir for the '3 before I try it there - what can I say it's 41
yrs old and looks tired, raggedy, and rusty; come to think of it, I just
described its owner too.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Fred Thomas
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 9:33 AM
To: David Massey; The Brooks'
Cc: [unknown]; Triumph List
Subject: Re: TR3 Clutch Hydraulics not working
My Corvette neighbor has this type, "Snap-On" about 200.00, comes with about
6/8 different size caps, never tried it on a "6", very neat, clean, and does
the job, but, $200.00.
----- Original Message -----
From: David Massey <105671.471@compuserve.com>
To: The Brooks' <TR3A@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: [unknown] <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>; Triumph List
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 9:04 AM
Subject: RE: TR3 Clutch Hydraulics not working
>
> Message text written by "The Brooks'"
> >Jeff,
>
> I don't know if there were any downsides, but when I had the same
> problem, I opened up the clutch bleeder and put a little bit of
> air pressure on the small hole on the top of the hydraulic fluid
> can lid. This got the clutch cylinder primed and flowing. I
> just couldn't bring myself to take everything apart again.
> <
>
> Jack,
>
> There is a product on the market that does something very similar. They
> have a selection of caps to replace the regular MC cap to which is
attached
> a hose from a pressurized container of brake fluid. The pressure is taken
> from a road wheel.
>
> The theory of operation goes like this. Since the replacement cap is air
> tight the whole system is pressurized with the tyre air pressure. Air
> pressure (from the tyre) is applied to the top of the brake fluid in the
> pressurized container which forces brake fluid into the master cylinder
> (which replaces any fluid bled at the wheel cylinders). Now all one has
to
> do is crack open each wheel cylinder in turn and let fluid flow until
there
> is no trace of air. Be sure to top up the tyre pressure afterwards.
>
> The only problem is that there is no c\ap that fits the TR6 MC.
>
> I forget the name of the product but I am sure that it will come up.
>
> Dave
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