You mean I could mount it next to the non-stock spin-on filter, power it
with the GM alternator and use it to send petrol to the non-stock SU 6's?
Where ever the "O.P."'s are, don't give them my address!! ;-)
That makes a lot of sense. The new electric pumps are almost bullet proof
and much easier to change in the dark, in a suit, in the rain. You can
even plumb in a backup pump. And I hadn't thought of what would happen if
the little mechanical devil decided to eject parts into the engine.
Thanks!!
Michael
On Fri, 25 Feb 2000, Westerdale, Bob wrote:
> Although the Originality Police might have me shot, I have changed over to
> an electric pump, with wonderful results. As most SU's tend to leak a bit
> while inactive, the fuel levels in the bowls usually are not sufficient for
> quick starting. You end up running the starter just to refill the fuel
> bowls, putting a strain on a semi dormant battery. With an electric pump,
> your can just turn on the ign. switch, wait a few seconds, and fire it up!.
> Less battery strain, no danger of ruptured fuel pump diaphragm, ( and
> resulting oil/gas mixing) and you can install a hidden switch to disable the
> pump as a theft deterrent. I had the original mech pump self destruct: The
> pivot pin worked loose, the actuation finger jammed the camshaft and the
> last 4' of the camshaft fractured! So for a fuel pump failure, I got to
> remove the entire front of the car, (TR3) top of the engine, and replace the
> cam. The electric pump was about $ 40. The lesson learned was worth
> thousands!
> Bob Westerdale
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Mason [mailto:mmason@lindenwood.edu]
> Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 10:15 AM
> To: Bob Labuz
> Cc: triumphs
> Subject: Re: Any SU 6 Gurus?
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob:
>
> I have an aftermarket pump which doesn't have the little priming handle
> (which I don't like, because if it ever goes out I am just dead! I have
> managed on other occasions to make it home by pumping by hand and
> driving a little ways) and I don't know if it has a pressure release.
> Would make sense though.
>
> Thanks. Any idea would help at this point.
>
> Michael
>
> On Fri, 25 Feb 2000, Bob Labuz wrote:
>
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > I am not a TR6 expert, but could there be a problem with your fuel pump?
> On
> > TR3's, the mechanical pump has a pressure release valve to disable the
> pump
> > action when optimum fuel pressure is reached. I have never experienced
> your
> > problem in over 30+ years of TR3 and 4 ownership. I have experienced fuel
> > starvation due to stuck valves in both the floats and fuel pump, but never
> too
> > much pressure. Again, I would check the fuel pump. Good luck!!
> >
> > Bob Labuz
> > 1958 TR3A
> > 1974 T140V
> >
> > Mike Mason wrote:
> >
> > > OK, I give up. The front float bowl, about fifteen minutes after you
> shut
> > > the car off, will hiss or "sizzle" and petrol will run out of the
> overflow
> > > tube. I have replaced the top, put in a new Gross Jet (both carbs), set
> > > the float level within specs, and checked everything else I can think
> of.
> > >
> > > I detached the emissions hoses thinking that maybe back pressure was
> > > causing the petrol to pressurize and escape. These are Australian spec
> > > carbs fitted to a '73 TR 6 so no jokes about the float bowls being
> upside
> > > down on this side of the hemisphere. I tried driving upside down and
> that
> > > didn't change anything!
> > >
> > > Any more ideas? I am tired of getting en miles to the gallon because
> all
> > > the petrol goes on the ground. Fortunately no fires yet!!
> > >
> > > Michael
> > > St. Louis, U. S. of A. or thereabouts
> >
> >
>
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