I've done the same thing -- before I learned that brake bleeders don't want
to be tightened more than where they are just tight enough so that they
won't leak or vibrate loose.
I think the seal actually occurs at the tapered point, not at the threads.
Brake fluid is pervasive enough to get by the threads, which is your
problem. You need that point. Can you find an oversize bleeder with the
tapered point and a tap the same size? Both times it happened to me, I was
able to drill the old broken bleeder out and retap for the correct size new
bleeder -- just lucky I guess. The trick is not to use too large a drill
bit. The tap actually just cleans out the old threads. I now keep a
bottoming tap for just that purpose.
By the way, the books say that you should never take apart the two halves of
the front casting, or they will not seal correctly. Ignorance is bliss.
Before I read the damn books, I took both sides apart while rebuilding, and
never had any problems with leaks. Again -- just lucky I guess.
Sumner Weisman
62 TR3B
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 16:33:26 -0500
From: Christopher Ball <cball@oct.on.ca>
Subject: I'm back.
Well, if you've been on the list for a long time, and you have a good memory
indeed, then you might remember me. It's been two years or more since I've
had time to post however, and I was tempted away by a few two wheeled
Triumphs for a spell. It's great to be back. I've had three notes comes in
just while typing this !
All that aside, I'm in the midst of prepping the old 3A for the Spring and
after 20 years of wrenching I've finally gone and done. Broken a part that's
not for sale anywhere. (off the shelf anyway)
I was bleeding the brakes when I felt that horrible soft feeling that you
get when threads decide to become little rings of metal. yup - the front
left disc bleeder was snugging up nicely when ... blah, it all went soft.
So, you can get everything you need to rebuild these things, but the
castings are not available and neither are the rebuilds from TRF. I tried
drilling and tapping to an oversize screw but it still weeps badly. ( the
screw had a flattened end though, instead of a brit style point)
Anyway - options? Helicoil it. I'm hesitant with brake hydraulics. Weld it
over and redrill/tap.
The seal might go on the two halves. A modern available replacement ? Any
thoughts ? I can't be the first guy to do this !
Looking forward to getting into the mix again. You there Petrolatti? Bob
Hamilton?
Christopher Ball
1959 TR3A
1975 Spitfire 1500
buncha udder tings.
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