Jeff,
Back in 1984 I "boat glassed" the floor board of my '76 vega GT. I first
treated it with some "magic" German chemical that changed rusty metal into
some inert black epoxy stuff. Then I glassed both front floorboards (only
the drivers side needed it) When I parked the vega out in the barn several
years ago, I pulled the carpet to check the floorboards, "just for fun"
Still looked like the day when I did it back in 84. And very solid. As far
as adhering to the metal, who cares if your going to cut the pans out and
replace them anyway :) If they do adhere well (and I don't think they will
that well, except where the epoxy actually goes through the floor) it will
probably add to the structural stability as well :)
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-spitfires@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-spitfires@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jeff McNeal
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2000 2:59 PM
To: Spitfire List
Cc: Triumph List
Subject: Temporary Fiberglass Footwells?
Hi everyone. Once I get started on one thing (like getting my seats
reupholstered), I can't stand to just let the car sit there without
embarking on another project. So here I go.
I've removed my carpets to deal with the rotting floorpans that I've known
about since buying the car. For reference and a look-see at what I'm
dealing with, see:
http://www.ohms.com/spitfire/seats_floors.shtml
The good news is, the passenger side isn't nearly as bad as I thought. In
fact, it looks pretty good with the exception of a small area of
rust-through in the footwell that I'm going to patch with fiberglass until I
have both floorpans removed and replaced. I really don't have to replace
the passenger side, but I think that I would be better served in the long
run by doing both.
In the meantime, the driver's side footwell is a real fright. Lots of decay
and I'm not even sure what's holding up what's left of the rusted metal
besides the undercoating beneath it. I know that I could cut out some sheet
metal and pop rivet around the sides as a temporary fix until my body man
has the time to do the job, but I think I'd rather apply fiberglass in the
well itself, up over the lip in front and over the lip of the transmission
hump and to really seal things and provide a strong footwell in the
meantime. I DON'T want to make it difficult for the body man to remove it
when it comes time to replace the floors, however.
I'm really afraid to drive the car even temporarily the way it is. I'm
afraid my foot could go right through that brittle, crumbling mess. So
here's my question: Is it possible to line the footwell area with a
substance that the fiberglass resin will dry against, but not adhere to?
Sort of like greasing the cake pan, if you will. Or using wax paper. I'd
like to create a snug fiberglass "insert" that I can use, but easily remove
when the time comes.
Best wishes,
Jeff in San Diego
'67 RHD Spitfire Mk3
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