Steve, I like the pencil idea. Wood would (if a wood could
would...sorry I was off on a Zappa thing or something) be less apt to
ding the damper wall and the flat end of the pencil sounds like an easy
way to reinstall the star washer. I'm going to try that the next time.
Thanks
Bud
Steve Nabors wrote:
>
> Thanks again!
> I ended up using an unsharpened pencil as a drift for driving the washer and
>screw out and driving them back in. I know, neanderthal, but it worked fine.
>Any scoring I might have inflicted on the damper wall in negligible. For
>re-inserting the screw and washer I simply drove the two together back in from
>the top with the pencil. Once again, scoring is negligible. I drove it today
>and everything is fine. If scoring did play a role then thicker oil would be
>in order to compensate but I just used the same ole MMM oil. Thanks for all
>the help guys!
> --
>
> On Mon, 10 Jan 2000 09:48:05 levilevi wrote:
> >
> >Steve,
> >
> >Using the rubber hammer to tap the air valve might be OK but I try to
> >avoid pounding on carb parts with anything if I can avoid it. It might
> >be safer to hold on to both the drift and the air valve with both hands
> >and use the weight of the air valve to drive the star washer and screw
> >out by tapping the end of the drift on the work bench. It's the star
> >washer that's holding the whole thing in there. Once it's out you can
> >slide the adjusting screw with the new o-ring back in easily. The
> >tricky part is getting the star washer back in and getting it flat
> >against the adjusting screw. Push it down the air valve with a screw
> >driver and then you'll just have to mess with it (push one side then the
> >other) until you can get it flat. Once you've done one it'll be easier
> >on the second.
> >
> >Bud
> >Steve Nabors wrote:
> >>
> >> Bud and Andy,Thanks!
> >> My understanding on this is basically set the drift/punch on the workbench
>with its business end up. Slide the air piston over the business end(upright
>just like it would sit in the carb)
> >> and tap the top of the air piston damper tube(here I'll use a rubber
>hammer) until the washer and screw slide/pop out the top. Avoid
> >> a new years celebration(assembly popping out the top cork style) by not
>letting the rubber hammer bounce too much on impact. Once
> >> I've got it out, replace the seal(a rubber o-ring from the kit) and the
>screw and washer will go back in relatively easily using
> >> a pencil or some other drift. Correct?
> >
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