I had a TR3 which sat 10+ years. One day it would not turn. Months later I
pulled
it. Soaking with penetrating oil, mystery oil, gas stabilizer, ATF fluid,
(suggested
by everyone I know :-) only freed two pistons. The other two were first
gently and
then more forcefully smacked with a heavy mallet using a rounded off 4x4 piece
of pine
lumber interspirsed with more of the above "juices".
The 4x4 spread the impact over the crown of the piston. Once loosened they came
out
easily. But be sure to check any ridge at the top of the cylinder. If one
exists
borrow or buy a ridge reamer to cut out this area (piston rings don't travel
this
high). Also the difference between the ridge and cylinder area below is a good
rough
indication of cylinder wear.
I also have a Healey 3000 with two stuck pistons. None of the above has
worked. They
are STILL soaking :-(
Sometimes it is not rust but reaction between the aluminum piston and steel
rings.
This was the case with the 4 pistons I did get out of the Healey which sat much
longer.
Cheers, Barry
'58 TR3 - '60 TR3 (partscar) - '62 Healey (tri-carb) All-in-Pieces
'68 Mustang convt that runs
>
> > I'll admit I didn't expect much from the motor of my TR4-A (parked 19 years)
> > when I bought the car, but I was hoping it would be rebuildable. This week
>I
> > tried to turn the engine by the big (13/16") bolt on the front of the crank
>...
> > nothing, it doesn't budge.... anyone got an idea/suggestion?
>
> I haven't done this but have heard of putting ATF into the cylinders and
>letting it
> sit for a long time (week?) to free up rusted in pistons... at least enough to
> allow removal, honing and assessment of the damage. Good luck.
>
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