Although that will fix the problem at idle, there is a good chance that
the mixture will be too lean at cruise, leading to overheating, burnt
valves, and in extreme cases the valve head will separate from the stem,
which causes all sorts of interesting effects. The description I got
was "A cloud of engine parts following me down the freeway" <g>
Randall - Who got to spend most of Christmas break making it run again
<g>
BOB KAMHOLTZ wrote:
>
> Mike:
> If you have the adjusting nut all the way up. Take the piston out and move
> the neddle out about 1/32"on both carbs. Leave the nut all the way up. Keep
> doing this until the car will not run. Then back off the adjusting nut and
> try it again. What has happened is your neddle and seat are woren beyond
> what the adjusting nut can do.
> This is not in any books, but it works.
>
> Good Luck
> Bob Kamholtz
> ECOD
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Ferguson <fergie@ntplx.net>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, June 19, 1999 14:48
> Subject: SU Carbs
>
> >
> >TR3 was running VERY rich. Tried adjusting jet adjusting screw, but jet
> >collar was turning with it. Turned out the locking nut was loose. Removed
> >carbs from engine, re-centered, tightened locking nut, reassembled and
> >installed. Pistons move freely.
> >
> >Opened both jets by 15 flats, set throttle stop per instructions in every
> >manual I own (barely holds a piece of paper). Started engine, let it warm
> >up...and CANNOT make it run properly!! I get black exhaust and a VERY rough
> >idle at about 1000-1200RPM - any lower and it stalls. Black exhaust says
> too
> >rich so closed jets one flat at a time. No improvement, still black
> exhaust,
> >rough running. Kept tightening jet until all the way in! NO CHANGE.
> >
> >No matter where I have things set, lifting piston by 1/32" increases idle
> >slightly. And the thing STILL runs like a tank.
> >
> >Am I doing something wrong or are my carbs in need of major surgery? Thanks
> >for your help.
> >
> >
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