Todd Friar wrote:
>
> Hi Jason,
>
> I had, am having a simmilar problem with my clutch. A couple years ago I was
> having difficulty getting the car into 1 st and reverse. The only solution is
> to rebuild or replace the clutch master and slave hydralic cylinders. The
> seals are probably worn and air is getting into the system, fluid is leaking
> out. I'll let someone else tell you how to tell if the cylinders need to be
> replaced. I'm np expert on this!
>
> One thing that you do have to be carefull of is to use the right kind of fluid
> when you are refilling/bleeding the system. I made the mistake of using the
> wrong fluid and now the seals on the hydralics have deterioated and I have to
> replace them!
>
> Now if anyone out there can tell us what the correct fluid to use with the
> girling seals is...
Castrol LMA is compatible with Girling seals, is readily available, and
is perfectly adequate if you change it every few years.
Personally, I like DOT-5 Silicone, which is also compatible with all
seals, and doesn't have to be changed (at least not as often). It also
doesn't eat paint or attract moisture to corrode your braking system.
BTW, driving without using the clutch is an essential skill for owning a
British car. Basically, at each red light, you turn off the engine to
stop, put the tranny in 1st, then hit the starter when the light turns
green. At each shift, you pop the tranny out of gear as you let off the
gas, wait for the engine to slow to just the right speed for the next
gear, then put it in gear. Kinda like double clutching, except you have
to get it exactly right.
I can't count the number of miles I've driven this way, but it must be
in the 100's. In fact, I've done it twice this year, once when the
Chevy's clutch cable broke, and once when I forgot to tighten the clutch
slave bleed valve on my TR3A <g>
Randall
|