Keith, good write-up.
I put my notes at http://home.earthlink.net/~bk13/brian-tubes.htm to
try and help others. The tube shocks in my conversion, which is
similar to the type in the VB catalog, are from a 50's vintage
Caddilac or Studabaker. As these old cars weigh more than the TR6,
they will be firm.
If you stay with the tube shocks, I recommend taking a length of 1
inch angle iron, putting a bend in it, and running it back to the
frame as a brace. If you take out the spring and run the trailing arm
through its full range of motion, you'll see the bracket try to pull
forward at the top as the trailing arm reaches the upper limit. The
frame crossmember at the rear of the differential to to which the
shock brackets mount had almost completely cracked off. A brace helps
relieve the stress where this crossmember joins the frame.
Other lessons learned: Double nut the shock. The shocks I bought
only came with a single nut. A club member had his come undone. Also
try a couple of tight turns with a change in elevation. This should
help get the maximum lateral movement of the tires. Then check for
any signs of rubbing. My first conversion had some rubbing, but I
haven't had any problem since I did a redesign. I run 205/65 15 tires
and am suprised you don't have any rubbing problems with 215 tires.
Keep checking.
I have poly bushings all round, as well as Addco sway bars front and
rear. I really liked the improvement the rear bar made. I run stock
springs. TRF's handling kit springs (RFK777) were abusive with the
tube shocks and didn't last long before I removed them from the car.
Handling with proper tire pressure is fairly neutral when driven hard.
Thanks for the details on your test. I think your choice and the
choices of the people on the list will depend on their driving style
and use for the car. Keep in mind some organizations do not allow you
to change the type of shock on your car and stay in the stock class.
If you plan on doing SCCA Solo II events check this out.
Brian Kemp
72 TR6
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