>I am curious, how do you get the new rubber seal around the end of the
crank?
The metal in the seal is ground off on two opposite sides and the seal is
split on one side where the metal was removed, so the seal is twisted to get
it past the crank flange and onto the newly ground seal area. It was easy
and a good way to get the job done. I was happy with the installation.
>And as far as machine shop costs, was
the cutting down for the new seal $65 extra on top of cost for journals or
was that your total machine shop cost for all the crank work?
The adder for the crank seal grinding alone was $65.
My overall machine shop bill was substantially more, but I had a lot of
stuff done, including a full balance, flywheel converted to a diaphragm
clutch, magnifluxed and shot peened crank and other components modified too.
This car will be autocrossed and the bottom end was built to handle the
loads and rpm.
Call around to a few shops and you can get an idea of what it costs to do
the journal grinding. Keep in mind there are extras too, like hot tanking,
removing crank oilway plugs (if you can't get them out) installing new cam
bearings, etc,. etc., etc. Figure the engine will cost upwards of
$1,400-$2,000 by the time you are done, if you do your own assy. As you add
performance features, the price spirals upward, but once it is back on the
road, the grin factor should too!
Regards,
Jack Brooks
1960 TR3A
1974 Norton 850 Commando
Hillsdale, NJ
My car show: http://pages.hotbot.com/family/triumph
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