while this may not be the answer for you, the wooden rolling rack i
built to hold the body above the chassis has made maneuvering around in
the garage a breeze. it is only inches wider than the chassis w/tires
allowing you to either roll out the chassis from underneath to work on
it or roll out the rack holding the body, depending on what you're going
to tackle that day.
the height of the rack is about 4' off the floor. while i can't
recommend my method (interpret=stupidity), i lifted the body off the
frame with an old come-along tied to my garage rafters with no other
help except a passing jogger. i tied a tow rope to the 2 seat belt bolts
on the upper rear fender-well and the emergency brake bolt. i also never
removed the doors, wanting to maintain as much structural integrity as
possible. hope this helps...................Tom
Winnie Olmer wrote:
>
> I purchased a '72 TR6 two years ago. My plan has been to first get it
> running, drive for a season to enjoy it, and find out what it needs. Then I
> will proceed with a body off restoration.
>
> Well, I've finally finished building myself a garage/workshop. After
> building my wife a stained glass studio in the last three places we lived
> over the past 20 years... I finally got my turn!!! I'm ready to dive in!
>
> My TR6 is in good shape, meaning that the frame is not ready to fold.
> None-the-less, I am looking for advice about jacking locations and methods.
> I plan to get the TR 24" in the air on 4 6-ton jack stands. Where would you
> place the floor jack? What should I watch for to avoid twisting or damaging
> the frame? Thanks for the help!
>
> =======================================
> Winnie Olmer
> CADD Solutions
> mailto:who@caddsolutions.windham.vt.us
> =======================================
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