Considering roughly 90% of TR6's were exported as left-hand-drive carb
units, and with the mechanical fuel pump also doing its fair share to block
the way, I think the canister element was/is somewhat silly. However, one
need not 'remove' the slave, just remove one bolt, loosen the other, then
swing the puppy out of the way to remove/insert the canister. No problems
(except the time & effort to jack up the car to crawl around underneath -
I'm on the verge of putting a pit in my garage!). My $.02 more. JD
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Zaborski [SMTP:peterz@merak.com]
Sent: March 21, 1999 11:28 PM
To: 'TR6 List'
Subject: RE: TR 6 Oil change
> From: John Summers [mailto:trumpet@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 1999 8:36 PM
>
> I didn't think a culture as advanced as the British
> could/would build something so stupid,,,but they did.
John,
Please consider that on "home" turf the car would have the steering
column
on the other side so the design is not "stupid". As for removing it,
a
little gentle pull on the column should flex it enough to move the
canister
past the column and out to safety.
> I did make the change and hopefully leaving the old
> canister wedged between engine and frame won't hurt
> anything...
Keep in mind that the engine is not perfectly stationary with
respect to the
frame when it is running. That is why the engine and gearbox and
diff mounts
are made of rubber or some other "pliable" material. You might end
up with a
damaged canister once you do decide to take it out. Or you might end
up with
more serious side effects. I would not leave it in there for any
more
driving excursions. JMO of course.
Peter Zaborski CF58310UO
(used to change oil with the canister, never thought it was too
bad...have
the spin off filter now)
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