Welcome to the list John
I always use the one side other side method. I would not recommend
jacking it up under the diff, though tempting, the diff mountings are
too weak anyways and tend to shear out of the crossmember.
Gernot
> ----------
> From: johnw@wrq.com[SMTP:johnw@wrq.com]
> Reply To: johnw@wrq.com
> Sent: Friday, April 03, 1998 3:49 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: New lister; have a question on TR6.
>
>
> Hey, I'm the new guy to the list. My true love is British
> motorcycles,
> but my daily driver(s) have been a '69 MGB and a '74 TR6. It's
> the
> latter to which I turn to you for direction...
>
> What is the best way to jack up the rear end of the TR6 when you
> want
> both chassis rails on 'stands? I have used the jack directly on
> the
> differential, but I am concerned that I am putting excess strain
> on
> both the body of the dif., and the four "studs" that hold this
> item in
> place to the body. Can I continue to use the dif. to jack up the
> car,
> or should I move to the "one-side, then the other-side" method?
>
> Second question is much more involved. The car has about zero
> body
> rot, but I still have a solid gap between the door and the rear
> body
> panels, especially at the top. One would have to imagine a "V" to
> get
> a picture of the gap from bottom to top. I am told this condition
> can
> be corrected by replacing the worn rubber between the body and
> the
> chassis. I can also reduce this gap to nil by raising the rear of
> the
> car. Is the solution as simple as shimming via new rubber at the
> rear
> end, or am I looking elsewhere?
>
> Thanks mightily
> John
> johnw@wrq.com
>
>
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