triumphs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Re: Tranny Removal

To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net, mmason@lindenwood.edu
Subject: Re: Re: Tranny Removal
From: rgb@exact.com
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 17:20:43 1997
Have to call "Bull...." on this one, I won't even repost the original.

The slave cylinder is a simple hydraulic unit with a single piston,
inlet and bleed screw.  It doesn't have a brain, memory or anything else.
Push fluid in, it moves back.  It moves the same distance for a given
amount of fluid.  It is self-adjusting within the range of the piston.

I would check:

1.  make certain its in good condition (iron pits easily and doesn't
    rebuild well, I usually replace it if there is any question)
2.  Verify the "ears" and bracket are mounted correctly
3.  bleed it, once again.  I unhook the yoke, remove the two trans to
    bracket bolts and while pointing the bleed screw upward, press
    the yoke into the pavement.  Open the bleed, while pressing downward
    till you see fluid (no bubbles), tighten screw.  Now remount it.
    You KNOW now that no bubble of air is hiding there.
    (if its new, mount it and get it working somewhat, then do step 2)
    (this is easy, 100% positive and you can do it by yourself!)
4.  Install a new "pin" and new yoke if its worn, middle hole (some wear
    here is okay if all the rest if removed.

This problem is now elminated.

Whatever you were trying to fix is either in the trans or master.

At this point I find a 2nd TR6 and compare linkage, movement, etc.
till the fault is isolated.   A bad seal in the master can cause the
problem described, these rebuild really well, I use a 1" diameter
3M scratch pad in the Dremel to "polish/clean" the bore and the new seals.
Note and loosenes in this yoke, pin, or pedal hole WILL make an enormous
difference in the "throw".  You can lengthen this underdash yoke to increase
the travel...  but something else is amiss (welding is the only option as
the clearance is too tight for any threaded yoke to fit, been there, it
was expensive).

Someone should make a threaded yoke for the underdash so you'd have a
way to elminate the elongation of the hole in the pedal...  but for this
much effort, you can remove the pedal assembly and have the holes
welded/drilled and then its just like new.  Note there is also a spring
on the clutch pedal.

Roger


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>