Joe,
You need to push the pistons in far enough that the top (open end) of
the piston is just about flush with the caliper. Don't open the bleed
screw or you'll run the risk of pulling air back into the caliper.
The way I do it is to remove the pads, and take a large pair of channel
lock pliers and open the jaw big enough to fit over the caliper/piston.
Gently squeeze the piston back into the caliper. It will take some
force, but the piston should move smoothly. This is a good chance to
check the pistons for signs of rust. If they're rusty, all you'll do is
damage the piston seal when you push it back in. Time for a rebuild!
An alternative method is to use a large C-clamp to push the pistons
back, depending on what room you have to work on the 6.
Whichever method you use, you need to be carefull to push the piston in
straight. If you put a lot of side load on the piston/caliper, you
could damage both.
You'll need to watch the brake reservoir level so that it doesn't
overflow. It might be worthwhile to bleed the caliper just to lower the
fluid level... Otherwise I use a piece of vinyl tubing as a "siphon"
line.
Once the pistons are pushed back in, the pads should just slip in.
Jim
Forwarded Message
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Hello all,
I am having a bit of a problem installing a new set of pads on the 6. I
got the rotors turned and attempted to install the new pads, no go,
won't
fit. Put the old ones back on and they just barely slide onto the disk.
I tried the manual trick of opening the bleed valve whilst pressing in
the cylinders. They moved a little but not nearly enough. Is there
something I am missing here? How far should the cynlinders push back
into the calipers? Any tricks here. It sure wasn't this tough when I
did the Mustangs brakes!
Joe Burlein
72 TR-6
Melbourne, FL
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