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Re: correct paint for bits and pieces

To: Jim Brooks <jabrooks@mv.us.adobe.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: correct paint for bits and pieces
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:38:50 -0700
At  7:15 PM 7/8/96 -0700, Jim Brooks wrote:

< edited>

>Is there any list of the proper colors for all misc. pieces?
>
>I guess a related question is, how do concours judges judge restoration
>authenticity?

>Jim

Second question first

The TRA has a concourse judging manual that will do a good job of telling
you what parts should be where.  I highly recommend it.

Painting.

Well the frame was build in one place and painted black except on days when
they were out of black then it was painted whatever colour was handy.  The
body was assembled THEN painted before it was mated to the frame.  This
means a couple of things, first there was little to no paint behind the
splash shields to protect the rear sections of the front wings and none
under the lap seams.  It also means that the bolts and hydrolic lines in
the engine bay were painted body colour.  Speeking of bolts and going to
washers, if you look at the washers on the bolts holding the front wings to
the inner well, the rear two on each side are large fender washers and the
others are standard size washers.

A lot of whats right on the car bepends upon when it was made.  Early cars
hadvynal covered centre insturment panels while later cars had black
crinkle paint.  Early disk wheels were painted body colour while later cars
had them painted silver.

There is a lot of contraversy over the correct shine to the black paint, &
I suspect the factory may have used both gloss and semi-gloss at different
times.  I do not think you could go wrong with semi-gloss.  Engine bay,
boot & inside of front apron are body coloured (think factory trying to
minimize costs.  paint the assembled body all one colour, the frame & drive
train all one colour and add ons black so you do not need to match them up
with a body colour.

This means steering box, front crossmember, headlamp buckets, stand for
wiper motor, horns and pedal pedistal are black along with the carb linkage
that fit to the body.

The steel center section to the wiper motor is black crinkle paint.  The
motor gearing assy, and windscreen washer bracket are tinned.  There are
two brass body plates mounted above the battery box.  These were installed
befor the car was painted so they are body colour.

The fuel tank and its mounting straps are black.  The fuel tank sits on
felt pads and there are felt srips under the securing straps.  These hold
moisture and will fause rust through.  The rubber strips you can get for
mounting an MGB petrol tank are perfect for replacing the felt strips.

The sticks (soft top bows) are almost always body coloured, along with the
little mounting plates.  The webbing is an unbleached cotton webbing (You
can get the correct colour from the Roadster Factory).
If you have the newer plates for mounting the side screens, they are silver
hammerite paint.

One thing to remember... The manuals do a good job of documenting the early
small mouth Triumphs but are wrong for many of the parts that go into the
later cars.  There were so many changes that the books have a number of
mistakes as well.  The Moss catalogue will help you as will the Roadster
factory's glov box companion.  But the TRA's judging manual is the best
document that we currently have to tell what should be where.

Good luck on your new project!

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet



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