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Re: Clutch

To: pleask@mailhost.wlc.com
Subject: Re: Clutch
From: aj253@rgfn.epcc.Edu (Tony Robinson)
Date: Sat, 4 May 96 22:43:41 MDT
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net

Pat writes:

>
>I bleed the clutch = no air.
>I took the fork and moved it from the bottom hole to the top hole, thinking
>it would give me more throw due to the pivot point, adjusted the rod so no
>slop and guess what... It's bloody perfect. The clutch now engages three
>quarters of the way to the floor, just like it should. 
>
>Another question if I may. The wooden knob (shift) slips on and off as the
>threads on the trans arm are shot ane I would assume the same on the inside
>of the know. Any ideas what I can do ?
>



Pat,
 Isn't it amazing how with a little tinkering, things (sometimes) just 
seem to come together?
 I assume you mean the knurled nut inside the wooden shifter knob.
 This you can just stick in with some 5 minute epoxy. 
 Snce the threads are worn on the shifter itself, I would recommend a 
repair with the 3 part thread repair kit from Locktite.
 There is a little bottle of blue stuff and two syringes of quick curing 
metal bearing epoxy stuff.
 Mix equal parts from syringe A and B and spread inside the knurled nut 
in the knob let it set for about 30 seconds. While you're waiting for the 
30 seconds, apply sme of the blue stuff (it has a brush in the little 
bottle) to the shifter thread. Then, thread the knob on. Let it sit for 
an hour or so and the will be repaired. The blue stuff is a release agent 
that allows you to remove the knob when you need to.
 This is pretty good "stuff".
 But alas, why foloow my instructions? Read the directions on the label. 
I'm pretty sure they are right. (snicker, snicker)
 That's my candy bar laff> 
 Oh what a mood to be in. Sorry you have to be the recipient of it.
Best Regards,
Tony
###


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