On Thu, 12 Oct 1995 Sean Johnson wrote:
> I was installing a new set of rear wheel cylinders and shoes on my Spitfire
> last night, and realized I don't have the square wrench for the brake
> adjusters. After struggling forever to get all those *&%$ springs back in
> place, I was too tired to try and wing it with the vise grips-Probably a wise
> decision.
The springs aren't all that bad to handle if you "assemble" them with
the shoes in your hands, catch one shoe on the appropriate spots, then
pull mightily to stretch the other shoe into place. Make sure the
springs are in the correct position, to most easily and correctly clear the
axle flange, etc.
> In the interests of using the right tool for the job: Is the wrench for the
> adjuster something standard I can pick up at Sears, or is it some oddball
> size? What size is it?
It is 1/4", but don't try a standard open end wrench of that size. I
have a SnapOn spoke wrench (I think) that works beautifully. It has very
deep jaws, to keep it from slipping off the post, and it is long enough
(10"+/-?) to afford some leverage. I'll look up the part number on the
wrench if you're interested.
Other options: use an adjustable wrench, say 12" or so. Yes, it's big
and clumsy, but again the jaws will be deep enough to keep from
slipping. Some folks also use the "drive" end of a 1/4" drive socket on
the adjuster (use whatever size socket will fit on the drive end of your
ratchet).
While you're still all apart, though, take the time to clean up and
lubricate the adjuster (I prefer white grease), which will make it much
easier next time.
> Also, I had to scrap a couple of rear wheel cylinders that were probably
> saveable because I don't have a cylinder hone small enough to do something
> only 1/2" in diameter. Does anyone know where I can get a small cylinder
> hone? I haven't had any luck at the local auto stores.
I am required by law to say that you probably shouldn't bother, as new
cylinders are cheap enough. However (and no flames, please!), I have
successfully saved many a wheel cylinder with some sort of appropriately
sized dowel or cylindrical object around which I wrapped emery paper or
sand paper. If you get a dowel just a wee bit smaller than the bore,
you'll be able to virtually duplicate the honing action, albeit somewhat
more slowly. In a pinch, I've even used my finger.
DISCLAIMER DISCLAIMER DISCLAIMER DISCLAIMER DISCLAIMER DISCLAIMER DISCLAIMER
Don't bother if there's any pitting or scoring in the cylinder.
Don't go crazy honing, period.
If the cylinder fails somewhere down the road, remember what I said
earlier about "probably should get new ones...."
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