Since I wrote the note below, I installed the new and rebuilt parts. Now
the system works, and completely due to replacing pin/yoke/push rod/pedal
interfaces. BUT... I'm not completely sataisfied with the way it works.
When I have the slave push rod attached to the middle hole in the lever,
the clutch barely disengages. If I move it to the top hole, it works fine
(i.e. engages in the middle of travel of the clutch pedal). I'm going to
leave it in the top hole for now, unless anyone can think of a reason why not.
COMMENTS/THEORIES:
1) Several have suggested that the combination of thrust washer wear and
flywheel machining has contributed enough to cause clutch disengagement
problems. I still think that this is accounted for by the auto-adjustment
of hydraulic systems.
2) Others have suggested that the problem is in the clutch components.
Based on all of the work I've done and all the parts I've replaced, I think
that this is the root cause. The only way I can think of to confirm this is
to have original design specifications for the TR6 clutch and compare with
the parts available now. Especially the dinensions of the throwout bearing,
and the amount of displacement necessary to fully disengage the clutch.
This sounds like a job for TRF.
Thanks to everyone who made suggestions,
Milo Kral
>I've been struggling with this problem for 3 months now. The clutch
doesn't disengage when the slave yoke is attached to the middle hole on the
shaft lever. It DOES barely disengage when I move the pin to the "top"
hole. BTW, the clutch itself and all hydraulics are new. I've had several
theories about this, and they've all been shot down:
>
>1) Has the shaft fork slipped because of a broken pinch bolt? No, but I
replaced all of this stuff anyway.
>2) Was the slave cylinder installed wrong? Yes, but it didn't change
anything. The slave cylinder was mounted in front of the plate instead of
through it.
>
>Current theory: All of the mechanical "slop" that has been worn into the
system over the years adds up to not enough throw into the shaft lever.
This HAS to be it, because there is nothing left to fix. I pulled out the
clutch pedal, and there wass 1/8" extra slop in the slave pin/yoke hole.
The clutch slave pin also has about 1/8" oblongness to the pin hole. BTW,
a quick calculation showed that 1/8" less throw at the master resulted in
.25" less throw at the slave. I have had a stainless steel bushing
installed in the pedal (retaining the original geometry) and ordered a new
slave pin/yoke. If this doesn't fix it, I guess I'll have to junk the car.
I believe that this is why the previous owner sold the car, because there
is a lot of evidence of work (rigging) done on the various clutch mechanisms.
>
>Any feedback on experience in this area would be appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Milo Kral
>'71 TR6
>
Milo Kral
Applied and Engineering Sciences
Vanderbilt University
(615) 322-2756
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