Top of the morning everyone.
I am pleased to announce the successful extraction of my TR3B
caliper pistons. Either I am incredibly lucky or maybe I just live
right (I doubt that ;^)). In any case, I was able to remove the
pistons using brake fluid lubrication, manually applied force, and
the right tool. The tool is really the important issue here. The
trick to removing caliper pistons is to "get a good hold" on the
piston and then work it back and forth, up and down till it comes
out. Applying manual force becomes a problem as there is very
little to grab and an even smaller area within which to grab it.
I am a firm believer in the fact that using the right tool can make
any job easier. There is an appropriate tool for this job. It is
manufactured by K-D Tools (Stamped on the handle was K-D 2105, U.S.
Pat. 3,593,601). I don't know anything about if it still available
from K-D or even if K_D is still around. This spanner is designed
to fit into the exposed end of the piston and establish a grip by
expanding outwards against the insides of the piston. Once it is
attached, you will be amazed how much leverage you can exert.
The job went something like this, I removed the calipers from the
vehicle, actually the PO did this part. I removed the brake pads,
bleed screw and flexible pipe. I obtained a suitable container
that will allow the caliper to be emersed in clean brake fluid. I
used two gallon sized Gator Aid Jugs with the tops cut off. Each
jugs holds one caliper just about a perfectly. Allow the caliper
assembly to soak for several days. I attached the spanner
described above and tapped it with a mallet, pulled and pushed on
the spanned handle and the piston moved. I was elated, given the
difficulty and problems described by those who responded to my
inquiry. I continued to move it around little by little and before
I realized it the piston was out. One down three to go. At this
point I still had visions of an endless struggle with one or more
of the remaining pistons. In my case, all three came out exactly
the same way. The pistons are severely rusted at the exposed end
and certainly not reusable. The cylinder bores are all in good
shape, rust limited to extreme edge at the open end.
The key here was the tool. I didn't know one existed until I was
offered the use of one while purchasing a TR3 differential in order
to get a replacement pinion flange. The differential owner was
kind enough to loan me the tool.
The tool is a simple affair made up of a round iron bar that is 10
inches in length. This handle has a fixed head attached at one end
with a jaw facing outward. The head piece is shaped like an "L".
The handle passes through the intersection of the "L". One leg of
the "L" is the jaw, the other handles the adjustment rod. The
moveable jaw is similarly shaped. The difference is that the
adjustment rod hole is drilled through and tapped. Adjustment is
accomplished using a allen wrench driven threaded rod through the
movable jaw to the fixed jaw.
I appreciate all of the help and assistance offered by those who
responded to my inquiry. Given the volume of responses, I think
its safe to assume that this is a common enough problem to justify
summarizing the procedures successfully employed by others and
cautions they offered. I can complied the summary. Is there interest
in a summary of this kind? Where should I post it?
I don't think it would be appropriate to bomb the list with a reasonably
long document of this type. I await you advice.
I want to express my appreciation and thank everyone who contributed
and otherwise offered assistance in this regard.
Jack Pepper
Annapolis, Maryland
JPepper@aol.com
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