>Amy,
>
In fact, Amy's name was introduced to this discussion erroneously (this
e-mail program appended her signature file mistakenly). I posted another
message to this effect.
>> Hmm. Well mine's a '71, build date Oct. 70.
>
>> Is there a possibility that I really don't have that adjustment either?
>
>Could be... The only way I can think to check is to shine a very bright
>light into the dashpots and see if you can see the allen-head adjustment
>screw. Some disassembly might make it easier to see down in there,
>especially if your dashpots contain oil.
Hmm - well I know I can get an allen key down in there and twist on something.
>
>> Are these what Kevin is talking about below?
>
>Absolutely.
>
>> I've pretty well ruled out air leaks
>
>I'm surprised, but it sounds like you've done a thorough inspection.
>
>Ah, but wait, here's one more thing to check. See if the car runs
>differently if you remove the oil-filler cap from the valve cover. The car
>is meant to have an air-tight engine, and only vaborized oil and blow-by
>should be fed to the vacuum ports at the rear of the carbs. This means that
>there should be seals on the 3 hold-down nuts on top of the valve cover, and
>there should be a seal integral with the oil-filler cap. There may also be
>a seal around the dip-stick. Removing the oil-filler cap should cause a
>huge vacuum leak that would make the car run real lean and drop maybe 200
>rpm off the idle. I made my own seals for the valve-cover hold-down nuts by
>cutting 1/4-inch long pieces of gas line. With these in place, I was able
>to suck on the valve-cover vent tube and determine that, indeed, the valve
>cover can sustain a pretty good vacuum.
>
I have mine sealed up with that RTV rubber-in-a-tube. I ran the car with
both of the carb vacuum ports blanked off and it was the same though.
>By sucking on the appropriate vacuum hoses, you could also determine whether
>or not the distributor advance/retard cannisters and the brake servo have
>torn diaphragms. This is a quick and effective, though particularly dirty,
>series of tests.
>
I've checked those out too. I think my plan at this point will be to try to
get it half-way sensible (synched) again, forget about it for a week or
two, then take it and have a professional check it out. My main concern is
that I don't want to go too far with it in a state which might cause
unnecessary damage (burned valves/seats...??)
>> >If this doesn't clear up your problem, contact Scott Paisley
>
>Now, if Scott's car is running rich in Boulder, and you're running lean at
>sea level, it sounds like you two could simply exchange engines and both
>drive away stoichiometrically balanced...
>
Sounds good. Meet me in St. Louis (isn't that about half way?)
>Kevin Riggs
>'72 TR6
>rkriggs@ingr.com
>Huntsville, AL
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