Amy,
> Hmm. Well mine's a '71, build date Oct. 70.
> Is there a possibility that I really don't have that adjustment either?
Could be... The only way I can think to check is to shine a very bright
light into the dashpots and see if you can see the allen-head adjustment
screw. Some disassembly might make it easier to see down in there,
especially if your dashpots contain oil.
> Are these what Kevin is talking about below?
Absolutely.
> I've pretty well ruled out air leaks
I'm surprised, but it sounds like you've done a thorough inspection.
Ah, but wait, here's one more thing to check. See if the car runs
differently if you remove the oil-filler cap from the valve cover. The car
is meant to have an air-tight engine, and only vaborized oil and blow-by
should be fed to the vacuum ports at the rear of the carbs. This means that
there should be seals on the 3 hold-down nuts on top of the valve cover, and
there should be a seal integral with the oil-filler cap. There may also be
a seal around the dip-stick. Removing the oil-filler cap should cause a
huge vacuum leak that would make the car run real lean and drop maybe 200
rpm off the idle. I made my own seals for the valve-cover hold-down nuts by
cutting 1/4-inch long pieces of gas line. With these in place, I was able
to suck on the valve-cover vent tube and determine that, indeed, the valve
cover can sustain a pretty good vacuum.
By sucking on the appropriate vacuum hoses, you could also determine whether
or not the distributor advance/retard cannisters and the brake servo have
torn diaphragms. This is a quick and effective, though particularly dirty,
series of tests.
> >If this doesn't clear up your problem, contact Scott Paisley
Now, if Scott's car is running rich in Boulder, and you're running lean at
sea level, it sounds like you two could simply exchange engines and both
drive away stoichiometrically balanced...
Kevin Riggs
'72 TR6
rkriggs@ingr.com
Huntsville, AL
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