On Wed, 31 May 1995 RGS03%ALBNYDH2.bitnet@UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU wrote:
> George Oliver asked about a 1961 TR3A available for purchase.
[much excellent advice from Rik deleted]
> $400 sounds like a real project car. As a rule of thumb, I usually tell
> people that a TR3 in drivable (not concours) shape is about $4 - 5,000.
> If you buy a car for $400, plan on spending $4,600 to get it presentable
> and drivable. Personally, I tend to look at $400 TR3's as parts cars.
> Of course there is always the exception. It could be that you've found
> a bargain. Please don't get the idea I'm trying to discourage you, I'm not.
> It's just that you have to apply some common sense when looking at it.
At the risk of flaming my best friend and sometime "Hardly Boys Racing
Team" partner, I do urge you (and anyone else) to look long and hard before
declaring any TR as a parts car, especially 2s and 3s. Granted, if what
you get for $400 is a twisted, cracked and rusted frame, atop which sits
a body in similar condition, AND there's a lot of bits missing, even I,
Mr. Optimist, would agree that what you have is a parts car. At that
point, one hopes that engine and transmission are rebuildable so you can
recover some of the price you pay in selling "cores."
Chances are that the car you're being offered is not nearly so bad as
the above description. What you also need to look at are such things as:
- Is the car together (despite missing seats) or is it a semi-rolling
tub surrounded by greasy bits in coffee cans, baggies and boxes?
- If the latter, is everything well labeled, down to bolts, nuts, washers and
clips?
- Does the engine turn freely? (Ditto for transmission and rear axle.)
- What else is missing? (In this case, is it just the seats? You can
live without, say, the ashtray, the original-style jack or starting
handle, but you'll have a harder time dealing with missing gauges, brake
calipers or door latches.)
Other points to consider:
- One, there were only about 90,000 TR2s and TR3s built, the last almost
33 years ago. The supply of good, bad or in-between cars is dwindling and
probably won't increase soon. I hate to see "borderline" cars become
parts cars.
- Two, there is no guarantee that spending more money to find a better
car will actually get you a better car. Sadly, there are too many
"restorations" out there that owe their existence primarily to plastic
filler, $39.95 "Presidential Special" while-u-wait paint, ring-job-in-a-can
and $1/yd. vinyl. And, with the $400 car, if you didn't like the original
Apple Green paint with Targo Purple seats, you can change it easily. With a
$4,000 and up "restored" or "driver" car, you're rather more committed
to the car as presented. I tend to be much more suspicious and careful
in viewing a "restored" car than I would be with a "project" car.
- Three, there are a lot of folks who enjoy the challenge of bringing a
neglected object back to life, sometimes solely for that end, sometimes
as much because they can't afford the entire $$$ up front.
> If you have the time, money and space to take on a project, go for it.
> If not, you may be better off looking for a running car and spending more
> for it up front.
Rik's advice here, with my above caveats, is good advice. You didn't say
if this is your first journey down the long road of restoration. If it
is, you might well discover why the PO had the car for 17 years and is
now anxious to free himself. Be prepared for a LONG, but hopefully
rewarding, challenge.
And, by all means, keep us all posted if you buy the car and have any
questions once you dive in.
Andy Mace
owner of TR3As, Heralds, GT6+, Mayflower, etc., and half of that '64
Spitfire he listed (The Hardly Boys Racing Team racecar)
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