>Chris Amley asks:
>
>> So if someone could describe cowl or scuttle shake, I'd be able to see
>> how the description matches with my experience.
>
Of course, you could implement the "fix" that Triumph engineers used on my
Stag...
Legend tells us that the prototype Stags had such severe scuttle shake that
the only way the engineers could keep them from jarring their fillings out
while testing was to wedge a broomstick between the crack of the back seat
buns and the horizontal beam over the top of the windscreen. Scuttle/cowl
shake can present itself as a generalized vibration at all speeds over, say
40 mph, or a cyclical vibration. I've seen it on some home-built
convertibles.
People often comment on the unusual roll bar of the Stag. It spans not
only the B posts but is in a "T" shape, with a dual-tube steel beam running
from the center of of the overhead roll bar forward to the windscreen upper
beam. Sure, it makes the car look neat, as though it could have T-roofs,
and Triumph marketed it as an "additional safety feature," but in reality
it's just the final incarnation of the broomstick.
**** A question for the group: ****
I've fitted my own convertible top, and although I think I got the rear
bow height right and front-to-back tension right, I can't get rid of
wrinkles/excess material on the sides of the top over the windows. When
velcroing down the sides of the hood, the rain gutters hang too low and
interfere with closing of the door. The hood is cloth. Any tips for
taking up this lateral excess when the only adjustments available to me are
longitudinal tensioning? I haven't glued up the two middle bows yet, only
the rear base, rear bow, and front bow.
Also, I've got aluminum alloy wheels which I'd like to polish up to a
chrome-like finish. Also need to repaint the recessed sections. Should I
use a chemical paint stripper? Will such a chemical damage the aluminum?
Any tips on doing it myself,or recommendations on a shop that does good
work?
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