Paul, let me chime in here on your thread... no criticism of your
message...
Cars from teh era of our Sunbeams had mechanical clutch actuation
schemes. her was a cross bar with a couple of levers and a big return
spring. Clutches were adjusted so that the clutch pedal has a bit if
free play at teh foot. Not much but always some. That was to keep the
throwout bearing from riding continously on the clutch forks. Our throw
out bearing were not intended to runn on teh clutch fingers full time.
Now along comes Sunbeam and probably others. They used the hydraulic
clutch actuation system because getting a mechanical clap trap to work
would heva been difficult at best. So hydraulic was really good for
making them work. But, the hydraulic versions keep teh throw out bearing
surface in constant contact with the clutch fingers. Thats why they
wore out and make lots of racket in teh olden days. I had to replace
mine a time or two and indeed every time I had the engine out, I changed
that sucker. Todays clutches and throw out bearings generally have a
higher tolerance for running in full contact. So if replacing, try and
get a hydraulic throwout bearing designed to run in full contact all the
time. Ditto for the clutch fingers. And you'll be a happier camper...
mayf
Paul.Tonizzo@sybase.com wrote:
>Hydraulic clutch slaves are self-adjusting and a return spring is not
>needed (at least that's what other British cars do). The piston moves up
>the bore as the clutch wears. So just fit a pushrod that almost bottoms
>out the piston to start.
>
>Paul
>
>
>
>>Subject: [Tigers] Clutch cylinder rod adjustment
>>There's been lots of talk about throwout bearings. I wonder...
>>
>>Is there a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
>>
>>The original slave push rod in my Tiger was a cut off carriage bolt.
>>
>>
>When I
>
>
>>replaced the clutch the first time it lasted less than a year. My theory
>>
>>
>at
>
>
>>the time (1984) was the slave cylinder was sticking, so I installed a
>>"return spring" on the pivot arm. It worked until the car was
>>"de-comissioned" around 1995. Now that I'm in the process of restoring
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>car I bought the proper push rod from Rick at SS. To my surprise, it's
>>adjustable! A good thing except.... there is no mention of the
>>
>>
>adjustment in
>
>
>>the workshop manual.
>>
>>So.... any thoughts on adjusting the clutch push rod? My inclination is
>>
>>
>to
>
>
>>lengthen the rod until the slave cylinder piston is pushed back as far
>>
>>
>as it
>
>
>>will go. but I may run out of threads before that. The next alternative
>>
>>
>is
>
>
>>to adjust the rod for proper clutch engagement (starts to engage a bit
>>
>>
>off
>
>
>>the floor, fully engaged with pedal "slack" travel at the top. About the
>>same as with my '57 Ford in 1963.
>>
>>A bit of guidance will be much appreciated. I have no desire to pull the
>>engine again.
>>
>>Tom
>>'67 Tiger 2
>>
>>
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