Hydraulic clutch slaves are self-adjusting and a return spring is not
needed (at least that's what other British cars do). The piston moves up
the bore as the clutch wears. So just fit a pushrod that almost bottoms
out the piston to start.
Paul
> Subject: [Tigers] Clutch cylinder rod adjustment
> There's been lots of talk about throwout bearings. I wonder...
>
> Is there a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
>
> The original slave push rod in my Tiger was a cut off carriage bolt.
When I
> replaced the clutch the first time it lasted less than a year. My theory
at
> the time (1984) was the slave cylinder was sticking, so I installed a
> "return spring" on the pivot arm. It worked until the car was
> "de-comissioned" around 1995. Now that I'm in the process of restoring
the
> car I bought the proper push rod from Rick at SS. To my surprise, it's
> adjustable! A good thing except.... there is no mention of the
adjustment in
> the workshop manual.
>
> So.... any thoughts on adjusting the clutch push rod? My inclination is
to
> lengthen the rod until the slave cylinder piston is pushed back as far
as it
> will go. but I may run out of threads before that. The next alternative
is
> to adjust the rod for proper clutch engagement (starts to engage a bit
off
> the floor, fully engaged with pedal "slack" travel at the top. About the
> same as with my '57 Ford in 1963.
>
> A bit of guidance will be much appreciated. I have no desire to pull the
> engine again.
>
> Tom
> '67 Tiger 2
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