Nathan:
A word of caution when fitting replacement heads to the block on a Tiger.
Take into consideration the total height of the new head and valve cover
assembly relative to the stock installation. You may find, as I
unfortunately did after completing the restoration of my MKII, that the
replacement head and valve cover combination is taller than stock. In my
case I used Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum heads with roller-tip rockers
under LAT aluminum valve covers. Yes, I did have to remove the oil-splash
guard from inside the valve cover but this was trivial. I ran into a problem
however when I tried to reinstall the rebuilt ORIGINAL engine with the new
heads - IT WOULD NOT FIT!!!*&%$#!
After, working for some hours trying to get things to fit I eventually
traced the problem to the difference in total height between the original
cast iron heads and steel valve covers and the replacement head and LAT
aluminum valve covers. I don't recall the dimensions but the replacement
setup was around 1/2 inch taller. The consequence of this was that I was
forced to pull out a great big hammer and beat the driver's side firewall
into submission.
Recall, I was beating a completely restored, painted, polished, perfect car
after nearly 5 years work with a GREAT BIG HAMMER.
Oh, yes the tears were flowing between the obscenities.
The engine has been comfortably in place for around 6 years - BUT in order
to remove the driver's side valve cover, the engine must be dropped: i.e.
support the transmission, disconnect the transmission mounts, remove the
exhaust manifolds, (remove the exhaust X-tube in my case), remove the
driveshaft, remove the fan, disconnect the clutch hydraulic line, disconnect
the starter cable, remove the air cleaner and, slowly lower the transmission
until the cover can be wrestled out (remember the engine can be lowered only
a smidge before the tranny hits the chassis). I found this out after the
intake rocker stud on cylinder 1 snapped. Luckily I caught the problem fast
and there was no damage to the engine. But replacing the stud was NOT a
user-friendly service. [Lesson learned: NEVER reuse screw-in rocker studs!]
Keep this in mind as you take your decision.
Best luck,
Wayne
********** Oh be quiet Larry..... *******
-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Johnson [mailto:vesselofgrace@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 10:20 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Aluminum heads recommendations
I am just about to replace the 289 hipo in my Tiger and was looking for
input
on what heads to put on a 302 block. I figure I should go with roller
rockers
and cam for easy horsepower and efficency and it seems to be the general
consensus that aluminum heads are worth the price to take weight off the
front
end and add more power. My first concern is which heads are compatible with
the stock exhaust manifolds and my F4 intake? Second, I am not trying to
make
my kitty into a drag strip lion (still needs to be safe for the lead foot
wife
to drive...), so what are some reasonable priced heads to make 250-300 HP
without going to headers? In response to my last post about valve cover
modifications, I was told that using proform roller rockers should allow
enough clearance to get my valve covers off without removing the engine
mounts. Has anyone found other roller rockers that will also allow this
kind
of clearance? Thanks for the help.
Nathan
66' Mark 1A
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