Frank,
Sorry, if I had read it more carefully I would have seen you must have
meant the TigersUnited.com Shop Manual, as the original is NOT in color!
:-(
Regardless of what title they gave Rootes, it does not make him a good
electrical component or systems designer. He knew this, so choose
another titled Englishman of his class, Lord Lucas. Does that give you
a clue as to what it takes to get a title.
The electrical system should have switched remote relays, using low
current from existing switches to throw the main circuits. These
include the horns, lights, hot ignition. NOT the starter (200--400
amps), using heavy gauge wire suitable for the circuit current. I used
the square plug-in kind of remote relay that fit a firewall or fender
mounted socket. These come in single and multiple relay socket mounts.
I also fuse the power circuits with plug-in replaceable fuses (modern
colored plastic kind) PRIOR to the relay power contacts, to protect it
as well. It takes all the destructive loads off of the windshield
wiper, horns, radiator electric fan (if any), headlamps, high energy
ignition primary, ignition switch power leads, dimmer switch, light
switch, and other goodies, like that 200 watt audio system/CD/radio.
These are inexpensive, reliable (if you get Bosch). Keep the power
leads short and away from sharp metal edges. Keep the fuses and relays
together for easy service. If you search a junk yard, you can probably
find a good condition relay box with multiple working relays, plug-in
fuses, wire terminations, a plastic fuse puller, and a cover lid. I did
this, and have spare stuff that the sedans use, like A/C power, etc. for
spare. This can be hidden, but accessible. I did all this mating my VW
wiring to my Fiero wiring and computer for my Red Toi. Worked just fine.
No, it will not look stock, but it won't be a burned out shell by the
side of the road, either.
Steve
Frank Marrone wrote:
>Listers,
>
>According to the schematics in the shop manual there is a brown wire that
>connects to the battery feed at the starter solenoid and then runs to the
>fuse block for the purple circuit (horns, etc.). There is another brown
>wire that connects to the Batt terminal of the regulator and runs to the
>headlamp switch.
>
>These wires appear to be swapped on my car. The brown wire that feeds the
>purple circuit is at the Batt terminal and the headlamps are wired to the
>starter solenoid! WTF!?!
>
>Are the schematics wrong? The wiring harness bad? I'm nutz? Best two out
>of three?
>
>I've checked and double checked this and unfortunately each time I have to
>come to the same conclusion. It ticks me off because I went through the
>trouble of fusing the headlamp circuit but instead it looks like I double
>fused the horns.
>
>I have a repo wiring harness.
>
>Any insights?
>
>Frank
>B9471116
|