tigers
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Brake Tubing Flares

To: James Barrett <jamesbrt@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Tubing Flares
From: Larry Paulick <larry.p@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 09:17:40 -0500
Hi Jim.  I redid my entire brake lines in both double flare and bubble
for my brake system.  The old brake lines are hard for whatever reason.  

I would suggest you go to the parts store and buy a short line, and try
your brake tool on it.  If it does not work, return the tool if you can.

When I did double flares, they turned out OK with a Mac tool, but I
could not get a good bubble flare with anything other than a Snap-On, no
matter what I did, including what you tried.

Also when I tightened my other flaring tools, it left a serrated mark on
the tube where it gripped the tube.

You can use a little oil on the flaring tool, which will help it from
gauling the flared end.

I came to the conclusion that to do brake lines, you need a Snap-On
flaring tool.  Expensive but it works first time with either bubble or
double flare.  

Good Luck

Larry

James Barrett wrote:
> 
> Folks,
>         After discovering that my Tiger and Alpines have
> both bubble ends and flare ends (on the same brake line) I
> went down and purchased a Performance Tool, Double Flare
> Tool.  I had already purchased an assortment of British
> brake hoses with bubbles on both ends.  I figured I could
> modify one bubble to a flare and that would take care of
> the long pipe on the rear axle.  The short pipe that goes
> to the flexable hose has flares on both ends ( as well as one
> female fitting).  I thought I could reuse the fitting and make
> up a neat new line.
>         Well I took an old brake line to pratice on.  @$#!%@*&^
> Followed the instructions to a T.  The 3/16 brake line would
> slip out of the tool every time I tried to do the first half
> of the double flare.  Tried clamping the tool in a big vice
> plus clamping with a Channel Lock tool.  Still slipped.
> wrapped some aluminum foil around the pipe where it was clamped
> with no luck.  Finally added valve grinding compound into
> the tool's clamping "teeth".  This sort of held the brake
> line, but after 10 tries I still can not get even close to
> a good first stage of the flare.
>         Thinking about heating the end of the pipe up and
> annealing it a bit.  Could the old line be work hardened?
> Do not want to try the new material until I can get a good flare
> on the old pipes.
>         I cut the tubing square on the end, deburred the inside
> and chamfered the outside.  Spaced the tube as indicated
> and followed the rest of the instructions.  No Luck.
> I tried different amounts of chamfer and that didn't help.
>         I made sure the old pipe was not rusty , oily or scratched.
> The pipes, both old and new were .186 OD.  The clamp is
> .176 ID when empty and closed.  I even tried cutting oil
> on the first stage tool with no luck
>         Any one had success doing a double flare on a Tiger
> brake line?
> James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>