Jim, while I can't help you with the exact sequence of assembly of the
parts, if you don't get a response, call Dave Bean Engineering. They
were very helpful with my custom brake design, and provided answers to
questions freely.
If you need parts, they either have it or know a source. Prices are
good, and their knowledge on various brake questions was most impressive.
They have a web site, but if you can't find them let me know, and I will
look it up.
I used the bubble flare lines found at Pep Boys with success, and no
leaks. I also made new flares, where the stock length was too long.
I did learn that you must have a Very Good flaring tool, or it will
leak. I tried a Harbor Freight, no good, a Mac Tool, no good, and then
finally a Snap On that worked the first time. You can tell by looking
at the flare if it will leak or not after you do a number of them. Just
compare your flare with a factory made flare.
Good Luck
Larry
James Barrett wrote:
>
> Folks,
> I just spent a very frustrating Saturday
> replacing the two rear wheel cylinders on my Tiger II.
> Problem # 1. Even after using PB Blaster
> on the line fittings and using a special brake line
> hose tool, I rounded off one fitting. It finally
> came loose with the assistance of a Mapp Gas tourch.
>
> Problem # 2. I decided to replace both lines.
> I had purchased some British lines with the "bulb"
> ends. The original long line was 57 inches with
> several bends in it. I had a 60 inch new line that
> I finally got bent so it would line up.
>
> Problem # 3. I checked the threaded holes
> in the new wheel cylinders and noted that one hole
> had a downward seat that would mate with the bulb
> end or a bleeder screw. The other hole had a
> cone facing upward which obviously would not
> mate with a bulb end line. Both wheel cylinders were
> identical, and after 15 minutes of cussing, assuming
> that I had the wrong cylinders, I examined the old
> cylinders and found that they were identical to the new
> cylinders. Only then did I examine both ends of the
> old brake lines. The left end of the 57" line
> has an inverted V end like American cars, and the
> right side end has the British bulb. The short line
> that goes to the flexable hose has the V end on both
> ends. There is a Female connector that mates with
> the flexable hose. I therefore had to use the
> original lines as I do not have a tool to form
> the ends on the new lines.
>
> Unresolved Problem # 4. The wheel cylinder
> retaining "things" consisted of a large oval flat
> steel spring that has 4 small tabs that mate with
> a pair of horse shoe shaped clips that have dents
> on each leg of the "horseshoe" At the top of the
> horseshoe is a tab roughly 1/2" square that is offset.
> The oval spring is curved and apparently the two horseshoe
> pieces should interlace with the oval spring.
> Unfortunialy I had removed the Oval springs
> when I removed the brake lines and failed to notice
> which way the curve was orginally.
> I looked at all reference material I
> had and nowhere did I find the assembly Instructions
> for the Oval and the two clips. This included the
> factory manual and parts lists for Sunbeam and the Tiger
> ( but not the Tiger II). The line drawing of the
> parts in the factory manual show the oval completely
> flat and the offset of the horseshoe facing away from
> the wheel cylinder while the dents in each side of the
> horse shoe are closest to the wheel cylinder. All
> other line drawings I found, apparently were copies
> of the factory manual drawing.
> Well guys and girls, the horse shoe tab offset
> is to the same side as the dents and the oval springs
> have a curve to them. So much for line drawings!
> I tried for 4 hours to assemble
> the clips with the dents in the horseshoes facing the
> wheel cylinder. I was unable to do it. The assembly
> was just to tight and I could not get the second
> horseshoe installed.
> I finally flipped the horeshoe clips over
> and then wired the clips to the oval. This is sort
> of sloppy, but the new rubber boot may keep the parts
> from being lost when the wire breaks.
>
> Does anyone have clear instructions on
> the assembly of the oval and the two clips.
> Which way should the curve of the oval spring
> be relative to the backing plate and how should the
> horseshoe clips be interleaved with the oval
> spring? What magic tools are used?
>
> By the way, I was holding the new wheel
> cylinder tight to the inner surface of the backing
> plate by slipping two large rubber band around the
> rubber boot retaining flange, tieing knots in the
> rubber band and looping the end of the bands over the
> hub with the new cylinder under the rubber bands.
>
> I also found that clips for an Alpine 5 wheel
> cylinder can not be used due to inteference with
> the Tiger II rubber boot retaining flange.
>
>
>
> James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others
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