Tim
I found your comment about brazing quite interesting. I had always been lead
to believe that brazing was actually stronger than spot welding. Having
never done any weld repairs on cars myself, I must admit that I am clueless
as to the pros and cons of each method, but I am always interested in
learning more.
Bob
> ----------
> From: Ronak, TP (Timothy)[SMTP:Timothy.P.Ronak@akzo-nobel.com]
> Reply To: Ronak, TP (Timothy)
> Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 7:45 AM
> To: 'c_mottram@yahoo.com'
> Cc: 'Tiger News Group List'
> Subject: Floor removal
>
> Chris,
> That will teach me for not reading the list carefully sorry about that I
> thought you were cutting a hole for a shifter!
> If you want to replace the floor Theo is right to use the spot weld cutter
> in the car to keep to preserve the attaching flange and use plain old
> drill
> bits in the car you are removing the floor from. After you drill out the
> welds you may need to use the flat blade on and air hammer to actually get
> the floor out but you do not want to deform the new floor or the old
> mounting flange in the car you are restoring. Be sure to mig weld in the
> new
> floor as it is a structural member and brazing is unsafe, unsightly and
> illegal in Collision repair circles. To fit the new floor position it as
> well as you can and drill a series of 1/8" holes through both panels and
> then screw the floor together with #8 sheet metal screws as a test fit.
> Once
> confidant the fit is good start to weld the panel in and when secure
> remove
> the clamping screws and weld ALL of the holes up. Use a metal etching
> primer
> like Sikkens CR and then seal the seams inside and out with a brushable
> body
> seam sealer.
> Best regards,
> Tim Ronak
>
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