In a message dated 11/23/98 9:52:49 AM Eastern Standard Time, lrw@aop.com
writes:
> 2) Other than shipping it to Smitty's, is there a diagram with the areas
> needing welding/reinforcement on the front crossmember?
I've seen photos in the Tech Tech tips book. I don't have a copy (I borrowed
Joe Parlanti's) but it should be available.
> 4) I'm planning on scraping & recoating the underside of the car while
> I'm down there. Plus/minues on POR-15 and its competitors?
Oh boy, I can tell you from experience that this is not a fun job. The talk a
few weeks ago about a rotisserie is very appropriate here. Flipping the car
over would be well worth it in this case.
After getting the junk off, I used self etching primer and then Sikkens two
part catalyzed urethane paint.
Getting the junk off is a real treat. I oscillated between scraping, heating,
and grinding off the stuff. Scraping seemed to be the best but it is still
labor intensive.
Never used POR-15, but I understood this to be a rust converter. So the
surface would have to be rusty for it to work.
> 7) Repeat question: how about ditching the front disc dust shields?
I'd keep the dust shields -- they serve a purpose. Why ditch them?
> 8) The car will for a while have no suspension under it and have to be
> propped up on jackstands; where's the best place under the car to put
> them? Don't want to budget for a hydraulic lift right now.
Be careful under the car. Use multiple jack stands under solid frame pieces -
not the area with the exhaust system pass throughs. Chock the wheels if you
are going to leave the rear wheels on the ground. In addition to the jack
stands, I'd also place something else under the car, such as the removed
wheels, to provide some energy absorption space in case the car does fall.
Good luck.
Rob Kempinski
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