James Pickard wrote:
> My question is, do I attempt the repair kit, or do I just replace the
> master cylinder?
>
> Jim Pickard
> B9473298
Jim,
I just replaced both the master and slave clutch hydraulics. Unless you have
arms that can hold a wrench on the cylinder, while turning a bolt inside the
car, you'll need two people.
I went through the same questions you did, repair or replace, and chose
replace. I did this for two reasons. First, new parts are still available,
although the replacement clutch master had a plastic top, like the brake,
rather than the thin metal one. Also, Lucas (manufacturing the Girling
parts) has made as few "stocking numbers" as they can. Consequently the
"universal" clevis-pushrod of the new unit will not fit. I removed the
rubber boot, the circlip, and re-used my original push rod. I was able to
pull the rubber from the unused unit, and push it over the one piece
original. A little hydraulic fluid may help. I also used a purple synthetic
fluid to (hopefully) prevent/reduce the corrosion that the hygroscopic brake
fluid carries. Everything now works fine.
The second reason is that I still have hopes of finding someone to sleeve
the original units with stainless steel. Found one who would do it, but
didn't know what 'honing" meant. Another classic car rebuilder would use
brass tubing, which would probably be OK, but I still prefer stainless. So
no I have two good cores for future "improvement".
It's a lot cheaper two re-build, if you know how to hone, but from previous
experience I have found that correctly honing a closed end cylinder is not
easy.
You may be lucky, and the bores are perfect, but the rubber parts have
disintegrated. If you can stand the down time, you can look.
Let me know what you finally do.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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