I posted this suggestion yesterday concerning the drilled out shock mount
plate and didn't see a response.
"What about slipping a flat magnet under the bottom of the oversize hole and
filling the hole with weld.
grind the fresh bumpy surface flat, locate the shock, mark the center on the
fresh weld surface, redrill and re-tap? Good as new and you can leave the
spring pan in place."
I'm wondering if this approach will be as strong as the original steel or if
the welded and redrilled and tapped hole is significantly weaker than the
tapped hole in the original rolled steel plate. I know that cranks are welded
on and reground to standard, but that new crank surface just rubs inside a
bearing and doesn't get pulled on by a bolt like it would as a shock mount.
How about it, any metallurgists out there, or horror stories about welded and
re-drilled holes?
Glen
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